The Truth Behind Skincare's Holy Water

Fabienne Sebaoun, the founder of "Lost in Skination" reveals her experience with the certified beauty-junkie cult product, and if it is indeed worth all the hype it garners.

In 2012, while I was in Quiberon for a spa treatment, I made a major skincare discovery. In the midst of being sealed in a  wrap of algae, mud and clay, like a salmon in foil, the spa esthetician asks me: "Do you know Biologique Recherche?" I hadn't. She promises to tell me more after my treatment is over. While waiting in my algae wrap, I wondered what could this brand have to offer? I already have seven years of experience reporting on skincare, cult products and seemingly every spa treatment offered around the world. Yet, I had never heard of this mysterious brand. After the treatment I rushed to discover the Biologique Recherche universe. I was immediately amazed: their skin diagnosis, their scientific approach, the treatment protocol and the wealth of ingredients. I came to realize that their products are extremely high-grade and only sold in spas or in specialized beauty salons. Then finally, I come across the hero product of their brand which is called Biologique Recherche P50. P for peeling, which is to be done for 50 days.

Taking a moment to absorb the history of this product, I did my research and learned a bit more about the brand. Iin 1970 biologist Yvan Allouche formulated an exfoliating lotion, a gift for his wife Suzette, a physiotherapist. Class, right? This lotion was then offered to clients of their clinic in Paris with only one goal – to deliver results. After growing more popular locally, international demand soon came after and the Biologique Recherche brand was born.

In 2000, the Biologique Recherche P50 brand was reformulated by their son, Doctor Philippe Allouche in which he made several versions for different skin needs. The key function and goal of the product is to reconstruct the epidermis. While the skin naturally exfoliates and sheds old skin, this process slows down with age, which is where P50 comes into place. It gradually and gently exfoliates the skin while boosting hydration and protective functions of the skin purifying and regulated active ingredients. 

While quite impressed by everything I learned, when I left Quiberon, I did not take the plunge. I decided not to buy the Biologique Recherche P50 lotion. I convinced myself that this product is probably too active. I formulated my own theory, telling myself each person's skin is unique, you can't try everything (though I prided myself on trying beauty products) and exfoliation works best for certain people. At that time, I was a fan of the microbiota - the good bacteria on the skin -, and I would rather roll in mud than exfoliate my skin. The idea of ​​stripping my face bristled me. I continued to closely follow the evolution of this superb brand, and though I had great interest, I still could not take the dive. After all, I and my dead cells lived very well together.

Over 6 years later in 2018, I settled in Montreal, and found myself yet again reading a thread on Biologique Recherche P50. At that time, I was marketing director of a luxury skincare brand when I met Danuta Mieloch. Perhaps that name might not hold any significance to you, but I had recognized her as a skincare legend.

Danuta is the creator of the storied Rescue Spa in Philadelphia and NYC, for many beauty-lovers she is considered the queen of skincare and moreso, she’s been instrumental in the success of Biologique Recherche P50 range. Though this product was created almost 50 years ago, it met a shocking resurgence of modernity, and today is met with the deepest passion of beauty journalists, influencers, celebrities, it girls and skincare experts. So I ask, what is the secret magic behind this potion-lotion? Danuta informs me: a gentle exfoliation which restores the acidic PH of the skin and results in acheiving a balanced complexion and the glowing skin we are all looking for.

After speaking to Danuta, I was finally ready to take the plunge. Only, now that some years have passed, I am recommended to use the P50 PIGM 400 formula made for seniors. After briefly disappearing to cry, I took the advice and the revered product. Looking at the pearlecent bottle with gold writing, I feel like I'm in a scientific laboratory in the 80s. When I reach the privacy of my home, I put on latex gloves and unscrew the cap ceremoniously as I've been informed the product is known for its vinegar-like odor. However, this is not the case for the P50 PIGM 400. On a cotton pad I pour the lotion and then I apply to my face, neck and décolleté. I started by using the product three times a week and gradually work my way up to two daily applications, morning and evening. I notice on my first usage that it renders my skin drier than usual so I make sure to supplement with extra hydration. By my 4th application, my smile lines have faded and at my barre class, I look in the mirror and I have a radiant and glowing complexion.

In the time time come, I notice that after a week, there are no more pimples on the chin. Magic. My skin is much less dry after each use. After a month, my complexion seems perfected and the texture of my skin is smooth and soft. After 50 days, my skin is much more resilient and my complexion is more even. In the end, I reflect on the last six years of hearing about this product, and am completely understanding on what all the hype is about. So why is Biologique Recherche P50 lotion so revered? Simply because this product is very, very effective. And though I met the product with much resistance, I insist, if you try this, you will be converted to the P50 sect in no time.


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